The Great European Adventure, Day 7: Romefeatured

Mille viae ducunt homines per saecula Romam. “A thousand roads lead men forever to Rome.” All roads lead to Rome. We didn’t follow a road to Rome, per se – we sailed in on a very large ship – but this entire adventure was centered on this port for me. Of all of the places I wanted to go and all of the things I wanted to see, Rome was towards the top.

It took us months (literally) to figure out what we were going to do. Colosseum? Sistine Chapel? Trevi Fountain? Spanish Steps? Vatican City? What about the Pantheon? The Piazza Navona? Santa Maria in Trastevere? We needed to have some pasta, that was obvious. And wine. We needed to sip on Italian wine while we were in Rome.

Royal Caribbean offered dozens of excursions for Rome, but only one that hit all of the major spots:

See the essential sights of the Italian capital in a smaller group, limited to 26 guests per vehicle. At the Vatican, you’ll tour St. Peter’s Basilica and the museums, including the Sistine Chapel painted by Michelangelo. Visit the massive Colosseum amphitheater, site of ancient Roman spectacles, and admire the Baroque splendor of the Trevi Fountain. Relax on a commentated panoramic drive that will showcase key monuments and landmarks, and enjoy lunch at a 5-star venue.

The “Exclusive: Best of Rome” tour. And it sold out while we were beginning to book our excursions, leaving me with my very own version of Sophie’s Choice where I had to triage the importance of each site. Did I need to see the Trevi Fountain? Would I rather see the Sistine Chapel or the inside of the Colosseum?

Stephanie checked in on availability every day and, in some kind of measure of divinity, a few slots opened up a couple of weeks before we left. It wasn’t cheap (~$350/pp) and I’m sure we could have saved some money booking with a private company, but the port at Civitavecchia was a long ways away from Rome proper and we just felt safer with that extra reassurance that if traffic or crowds kept us from making back onboard time, the ship would still be waiting for us.

Rise and Shine, Roma

The ship was navigating into the port at Civitavecchia when we woke up bright and early at 6:00 am. We had an early meeting time on our excursion tickets, which meant we were up way earlier than is rational for any kind of vacation. Our stateroom window was frosted in early morning dew, but we could see rays of sunlight peeking through, giving promise to the day ahead.

I’ve found that the key to a peaceful early wakeup is two things: firstly (and most obviously), coffee. Caffeine will make anything better. Secondly, though, is making sure all prep for the next day’s activities is done the night before. For us, that meant outfits picked out, shoes lined up, camera batteries charged and purses packed and ready to go. So as the ship docked in Civitavecchia, we quickly (and efficiently) got ready for a long day of touring and headed up to the Windjammer for a quick breakfast.

Unlike our first two port days in Cannes and Florence, the Windjammer was packed and we couldn’t find a single table inside. It was the first time we really felt any crowding issues onboard. The Windjammer staff were slow to clear off any dirty tables and we didn’t really have time to waste, so we headed outside and dined al fresco, where there were plenty of open tables and we had a primo view of the pier.

Once we were full and I had two cups of coffee running some much needed caffeine through my body, we headed down to the Some Enchanted Evening lounge to get our stickers and meet our tour. Because we were booked on the exclusive tour, our tour group was capped at 26 and there wasn’t so much of a rush to get on the bus.

Civitavecchi-ugh

When they announced sticker #4, our group was gathered at the front of the lounge and escorted down to the gangway and led to our tour bus. To be frank, the pier at Civitavecchia was downright disgusting, covered in a thick layer of bird droppings across the pavement and an impermeable stench of rotten fish wafting through the air (which made more sense given that Civitavecchia is an industrial port that deals primarily in fish).

We began to realize that, unlike the Caribbean, most of the ports we were (and would be) docking in were industrial ports that weren’t built to cater to tourists. So unlike the Caribbean, there weren’t shops and restaurants nearby and if you aren’t on an excursion or have a pre-booked tour, and you’re not looking to explore what local life looks like in these industrial villages around the ports, there’s not much to wing it with in some of these ports. No taxi’s lined up at the pier, no drivers hocking tours.

Thankfully, it was only a short walk from the gangway to our tour bus. We were taken aback, at first, to be led to a full size motor coach since the description of our tour was very specific that it be limited to 26 guests and we couldn’t imagine that they’d use a full motor coach for a group so small. Alas, our group was exactly 26, which gave us plenty of room to spread out on this rather luxe bus, with leather seats and primo air conditioning (a relief to us, as there was a warning in the excursion packet saying that the air conditioning may not be up to US standards on any tours in Rome).

As the driver pulled out and we began the hour and a half drive to Rome, our tour guide for the day, Laura, introduced herself and detailed the day ahead: a stop at the Trevi Fountain followed by a tour through the Colosseum (as soon as it reopened for the day from the morning strikes – a big relief for us!), lunch at a top notch hotel and then an entire afternoon touring Vatican City and the Sistine Chapel.

The little fishing village made way to rolling green hillsides as we made our way towards Rome.

About a half hour into our drive, the bus pulled off at a gas station to make a comfort stop for anyone who needed to use the restrooms. Laura handed out cold water bottles as everyone re-boarded the coach and we pulled back onto the highway towards Rome.

Do as the Romans Do

Rome wasn’t built in a day, so trying to hit all of the highlights in one was going to be a massive undertaking, but we were on the right tour with the right guide to get as much out of our one day as we could. Laura was a living encyclopedia of Roman history and regaled us with stories of the history and culture as we made our way towards the city. We faced heavy traffic entering the city, but with Laura providing a colorful history lesson on a city she clearly loved, the drive passed quickly.

The landscape outside our windows shifted quickly when we entered Rome. It was like we were entering a whole new world. One minute, it was non-descript buildings in industrial areas and the next, it was restaurants and shops mingling with high-end designer stores, surrounded by ruins of a society that once was. Rome has such a concentration of culture and I was immediately enthralled.

Our first stop for the day was the Trevi Fountain. The Colosseum was closed in the morning due to the strikes and Laura wanted us to see the fountain before all of the other tour groups and crowds arrived. Our bus dropped us off a few blocks away and Laura led us on the short walk, giving us the history of the fountain as we walked. Even though our tour was advertised as a strenuous activity level, Laura maintained a slow, even pace throughout the day. We weren’t in a rush, we were in Rome!

While the Trevi Fountain is known now as a tourist spot that seems to appear in every romcom that takes place in Italy, it has quite the history behind it. The story behind the Trevi Fountain dates all the way back to 19 BC, when thirsty Roman soldiers were led to pure water by a beautiful, young girl. The Romans constructed an aqueduct from the water source to the city and named it Aqua Virgo (Virgin Waters) in honor of the girl, with a fountain to mark the end of the aqueduct. Hundreds of years later in the mid-1600s, the Pope commissioned famed Italian artist and architect Gian Bernini to renovate the fountain and though Bernini’s vision for the fountain never actually came to fruition (the project died with Pope Urban VIII), some of Bernini’s concepts were used by Nicola Salvi, the architect who ultimately designed the Trevi Fountain in the 1700s. The fountain was completed in 1762 and repaired in 1998, but a full restoration of the fountain has been underway since 2013 and is expected to be completed sometime this year. This meant that our visit wouldn’t be to the grand Trevi Fountain, but rather, a Trevi Fountain that was drained and covered in scaffolding.

Legend has it that if you toss a coin in over your left shoulder with your right hand with your back turned, you’ll return to Rome and clearly, I needed to ensure a return to Rome to see this fountain once restorations were complete. Tossing in two coins would bring you love, and if you toss in three, it brings divorce! Even though the fountain was drained, during renovations, they have a small pool where you can toss in a coin.

I thought the fountain was magnificent, even covered in scaffolding and incompletely visible. Laura timed our visit perfectly – we arrived before all other groups and had just enough time to get some unobstructed pictures and work our way to the front of the pool to toss a coin in without fighting against hundreds of people trying to do the same. We had some free time to explore the area, so once we tossed our coins in, we set off to explore. If you’re looking to buy traditional souvenirs in Rome, this is the stop you want to do it at, as the prices are the best and the selection is the widest. Beyond keychains and magnets, you’ll also find plenty of gelateria’s, coffee shops and even vendors selling hot roasted chestnuts on the street.

I figured if the gelato shop was open, it wasn’t too early to have a little morning sweet treat and it was just as good as I’d hoped it would be. Gelato just tastes better when you’re eating it across from the Trevi Fountain.

We had just under an hour at the Trevi Fountain but the difference from the time we arrived to the time we left was staggering – we had to push through a never-ending sea of tourists trying to push their way to the front on our way out. Pro tip: if you want to visit the Trevi Fountain, the earlier the better.

The bus was waiting for us in the same spot it left us at and we quickly reboarded and began the drive to the Colosseum. I kept my eyes peeled, waiting for that first glimpse of this structure that has become synonymous with the city of Rome.

And then, there it was, right in front of me.

Our driver left us off at the top of a hill, and Laura assured everyone our pickup would not require a return walk uphill – the driver would pick us up elsewhere. As we strolled the blocks towards the Colosseum, Laura gave us another history lesson through our earpieces. The Colosseum is a large amphitheater in the center of Rome, constructed in 72 AD to hold upwards of 87,000 patrons at a time. It’s best known for the gladiator fights that used to take place there, but the Colosseum has also housed classical plays and dramatic reenactments.

Very few of the excursions offered through the ship do an interior tour of the Colosseum (most do a photo stop of the exterior) and even though there was a strike shutting down entrance for the morning and the ship wouldn’t guarantee entrance, Laura had been able to pre-purchase our tickets, so once the gates opened, we’d be able to enter. We arrived a little earlier than scheduled, so we had a bit of time to wait outside the entrance and admire the façade. The Colosseum is physically imposing and like just about everything else I saw on this trip, I was overwhelmed by it before we even entered. Standing there, taking it in, was unreal. I was really in Rome. I was standing in front of this structure I’d spent hours reading about during Roman studies of my World History classes. Laura was pontificating about whether or not this was the site of persecution of Christians during the Roman empire and all I had running through my head was “Holy shit this is really the Colosseum” and that all roads had actually led me here.

And as I was quickly realizing, if you find a structure in Europe you can attach a lock to, people have probably attached a lock to it.

As soon as the Colosseum opened to visitors, Laura led us in, tickets already in hand. Lines bottlenecked at security but it wasn’t long before we crossed inside.

Standing inside this space, with such a fabled history, it was beyond words amazing. It’s a can’t miss if you have any kind of affinity or appreciation for history. As Laura pointed out the barracks, the boxes and everything with any kind of significance, it all came to life in my head – that I was standing in the same space where people would watch Gladiators fight to the death hundreds and hundreds of years ago.

Laura led an option tour up on the upper floors of the Colosseum for those who were up to climbing the stairs up, so Stephanie and I went up while Mom and a few others stayed downstairs.

From the upper levels of the Colosseum, you’ll also find the best views of the Roman Forum and other nearby structures.

And I shouldn’t have to say this, but I don’t care where you are – there’s no good excuse to leave your name carved into a historical structure. Names were everywhere and while I’m sure it leaves some kind of significance to those specific people, this is the kind of stuff that gets structures closed down to visitors.

Besides, seeing the façade defaced isn’t nearly as cool as the etchings protected within the Colosseum.

The bus met us a few blocks away and we began our drive towards the Via Veneto for our lunch at the Ambassador Hotel.

Via Veneto is the Rodeo Drive of Rome – a street boasting five star hotels, top rate shopping and dozens of restaurants. Our tour advertised lunch in a five star hotel and we were even more excited that it was at a hotel on Via Veneto. The Ambassador Hotel was gorgeous on the outside and downright opulent on the inside.

We were led into a private dining room, where bottles of red and white wine were already waiting on every table and sparkling wine was poured and passed around as we sat. The best pasta I’ve ever had was plated fresh and each of us were given a choice of chicken or fish. My only notes from lunch? “Holy shit, lunch was good.” And it was.

Each course was served at a leisurely pace and we thoroughly enjoyed chatting with our tourmates over the delicious cuisine and bottles of wine. Exposed knees and shoulders aren’t allowed in Vatican City and restrooms would be limited, so before we left, Laura advised anyone who needed to change or use the restroom to do so at the Ambassador. We had just over an hour at lunch and we left thoroughly satisfied, slightly tipsy and all in all, ready for an afternoon in Vatican City.

Vatican City is it’s own state, located in the middle of Rome. Entering Vatican City is like entering another world, both figuratively and literally – though it’s located in the middle of Rome, it is an independent state (the smallest recognized independent state, for that matter, with a population of just over 800) and it is completely enclosed by tall stone walls.

It’s almost funny – we were standing and waiting for Laura to pick up our tickets and I remember thinking to myself how ironic it was that one of the holiest places in the world was literally it’s own version of hell. If you can’t handle intense crowds, a trip to Vatican City isn’t for you. From the time we entered to the time we left, we were fully surrounded by crowds of people the entire time we were at the Vatican.

If you can (figuratively, of course) push past feeling like a sardine crammed in a can to observe the art around you, there’s no place quite like the Vatican. Everywhere you turn, every line, every sculpture, every tile, is a work of art. Laura walked us through exhibit after exhibit, continuing to amaze us with the breadth of knowledge she possessed. And with each exhibit we walked through, I was just captivated by the artistry. Some of my favorite pictures from this trip come from our walk through the Vatican Museum.

And then, at long last, we made our way to the Sistine Chapel, the one part of our visit I was looking forward to the most. The Sistine Chapel is where the Papal Conclave takes place when the College of Cardinals elect a new Pope but more importantly (to me), is the home of Michelangelo’s grandest masterpieces: the Sistine Chapel Ceiling and the Last Judgment, painted in the early and mid-1500s (respectively).

Laura mentioned that women aren’t allowed to give commentary or speak in the Sistine Chapel, so she gave us the full history before we entered and mentioned the protocol of visiting: shoulders and knees covered, no talking, no photography, no video and keep walking. The chapel is smaller than I thought it would be, but it was magnificent. Each fresco was more beautiful than the last, and the storytelling through art and color was hypnotizing. The Sistine Chapel held the most beautiful art I’ve ever seen, and walking through it in near silence made the experience of viewing it all the more powerful.

I walked out of the chapel in a daze. In the span of six hours, I’d thrown a coin in the Trevi Fountain, had the best amarena gelato, walked inside the Colosseum, drank ridiculously good Italian wine while feasting on the best tasting pasta I’ve ever had and stood in the Sistine Chapel. Best day ever, right? This is what I love about traveling. Every other day is an ordinary day, and then there are days like this that are filled with so much culture and beauty and history. There’s a quote by a 14th century explorer named Ibn Battuta that I put up on my Instagram and Facebook this morning – “Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller” — and it kind of encapsulates how I left Rome: moved beyond words that somehow manifested themselves into a kind of poetry that lives on in a golden haze in my memory.

But back to the Vatican. We weren’t done after the Sistine Chapel – right as we exited back up into the square, Laura led us over to the last guided part of our tour through Vatican City: St. Peter’s Basilica.

St. Peter’s Basilica is one of the two largest churches in the world (the other being a church on the Ivory Coast of Africa) and is the quintessential piece of Renaissance architecture. The curvature of the archways, the gilded fixtures and warm colors are mesmerizing. Sunlight streams into the middle of the Basilica through a vaulted, domed ceiling. I was (yep…again…) overwhelmed by the beauty around me.

We kind of just wandered around for a bit as Laura spoke of the architecture and history and fielded questions (yes, people can get married here).

One of our tourmates somehow lost their husband inside (he’d wandered off taking pictures and eventually met up with us as we were exiting Vatican City) and we headed out to St. Peter’s Square to regroup.

Laura left us in a meeting spot to have a half hour of free time to grab a snack, use the restrooms or buy souvenirs (the amount of Pope memorabilia you can buy in Vatican City is simultaneously unsurprising and jarring). We were parched from the heat, the crowds and the hours we’d spent on our feet with no breaks to sit as we toured the Vatican, so we beelined for the first café we found.

Once our group reconvened, we had a bit of a walk back to the bus, which was in an underground parking lot that served all of the tour groups that were visiting.

The ride back to Civitavecchia was just over an hour and I alternated taking pictures out the window and (like most others on the bus) napping.

Before this trip, I’d talk to my friends about how I worried I’d burst out in tears at any moment while on this trip because I’d be overwhelmed by what I was seeing and experiencing and on the plus, there were no tears, but on the minus, between the long tours, early wakeups and constant wonder I was surrounded in, I was exhausted by all of it.

A Dopo, Roma

We arrived back at the port in Civitavecchia just before 6:30 pm and said our goodbyes to Laura, who was truly a phenomenal guide along a memorable day. We dropped our bags off at the room and freshened up before heading up to the dining room for dinner. Our meals were delicious (the salads got high marks from all of us!), but even better than a good meal at the end of a long day was sharing our day with Lloyd and Marc.

Royal Shrimp Cocktail

Slow-Baked Salmon Fillet

BLT Salad

Simple and Classic Caesar Salad

Beef and Veal Tortellacci

Cranberry-Apple Turkey Roulade

Grilled NY Strip Steak

Honey Walnut Tart

Low Fat Peach Melba

Drunken Kahlua Cake

After dinner, we headed out to the Promenade to get some fresh air and watch Civitavecchia fade into the horizon.

Back in the room, we had a new friend waiting for us with our Compass for our first sea day. The greatest part of this itinerary, perhaps, was the two sea days following Rome – we knew Rome would be our big touring day and we were relieved to have two days to recover before exploring Greece and Turkey.

When in Rome was playing on the big screen and if we didn’t know it was an all-female trifecta leading the ship (the Captain, the Cruise Director and the Assistant Cruise Director), we probably would have been able to tell in all of the romcoms playing in the outdoor theater. We weren’t complaining, though – you won’t find a family that appreciates a good romantic comedy more than mine seems to, and there are few nighttime activities I enjoy more on a cruise ship than watching movies on the pool deck. The combination of the sea air and the relaxation of watching a movie is the perfect antidote for the ails of a long day of touring.

There was a toga party scheduled for 10:30 pm that Stephanie and I really wanted to check out, but we were fast asleep as soon as the movie ended when Kristen Bell found her soulmate and we staggered down to the room. I didn’t know what adventures Greece and Turkey would bring, but if they were anything like our first three ports, we’d need all the rest we could get over the next two sea days.